Wan Hung’s first collection for London Fashion Week Mens was presented with a bold certainty of his own identity. Building a homage to his native Hainan island in China, the Central Saint Martins graduate acknowledged influence and adapted his heritage to its wily charms. A unique collaboration of Hainanese traditions and international innovation, the presentation celebrated the variety of inspiration, but the predominating colour scheme of brave red kept taking our thoughts back to China.
A year since his death, Bowie’s presence in men’s fashion is as strong as ever. The Autumn/Winter 2017 collection wallowed in the extroverted days of Glam Rock: white leather and black patent heels, big collars and cropped wide leg trousers. As the models’ faces glinted with glitter and craved our attention, there was only one word on our lips: extravagance. The looks were connected by a heavy fabric that matched the weight of Wan Hung’s LFWM debut; with a nod to Baroque-inspired exaggeration, Chinese lettering was cleverly manipulated into a damask-esque pattern.
Issue 10 boy Asbjorn Appleby stood out amongst an astutely cast selection of androgynous models whose shared thread of fierce confidence surpassed their global diversity. Elevated by their platform shoes, and held tight by their slicked ponytails, they bore down into our lens with a severe intensity. Behind each of those looks was a culture of national identity – behind each façade of borrowed bricks is a longing for home.
Words by Jonny Clowes.
Photography by Maud Maillard.